Garment Construction - Week 3

When transferring the style lines on to my dress block, I drew the back neckline so that it was in line with the Raglan sleeve seam. I ensured the seams were symmetrical. To make the pattern I traced off the shoulder panels, arranging them over the block sleeve, which gave me the Raglan shape.

I drew and opened a curved bust dart so that I did not lose any shaping from the bodice. Then I gathered up the central panels. After stitching the left hand side of the flare to the skirt, I realised that the stitching would have to stop part of the way down in order to fall properly. This left an opening in the skirt, looking appropriate at the front, but not at the back – so I added a straight central section.

To hem the skirt I used a turn and turn technique that was difficult to do around the curve of the flared panels, but gave an effective frame to the drape.

Garment Construction - Week 2

 Originally, I slashed into this central panel to gather up one edge, all the way from the shoulder down to the skirt. Upon pinning it to the mannequin, I realised that any gathering around the stomach area would look unsightly. However, I loved the drape in the skirt due to the flare that I had added.

I re-traced the panel, adding notches and slashed into it from the opposite edge, allowing the drape to fall on the other side of the skirt, following the curved style lines. I felt that there were not enough gathers in the diagonal panel, so I cut up and extended the pattern. I only added a subtle flare to the back central panel, but extended the gathered panel over the shoulder so that it became part of the neckline at the front.

Garment Construction - Week 1

Cutting out a basic dress block in calico and sewing it together allowed me to work on the stand, seeing exactly where the seams would be and how the garment would look. I marked on the style lines using tape, following the lines on my design.  I altered them if I felt they did not look right or could be better positioned. I widened the diagonal panel across the bodice to allow the gathers to sit more comfortably and become a focal point. Pinning fabric (on grain) to the stand meant that I could trace the curved style line and gather it up. After gathering, I pinned it into position to decide whether there was enough or too much gathering.

Draping

For the draping exercise, I cut out a square of calico measuring 70x70cm on the bias. Cutting on the bias meant that the fabric had more stretch and would therefore be able to drape comfortably. I pinned the fabric to the stand, smoothing out the volume towards the neck. Snipping the fabric at the waist helped the fabric to lie flat. The fabric could be pinched at the shoulders and followed round the neck to produce a cowl. I repeated this until the cowl neck had as much volume as I desired and cut off the excess. Then I continued to experiment by producing different shaped necklines.

To construct a pattern using the stand, I started at the centre front, pinning on panels of calico. Pencil lines marked where I wanted the seams. I pinned the next panel to the last seam, and so on. It is a good method that shows exactly where the seams will be on a garment.

Transformational Reconstruction - Week 3

I transformed the darts on a skirt by closing the original ones and drawing on new curved lines. I cut into these as well as an extra seam I added towards the bottom of the skirt. Cutting along the seam left me with a panel which I decided to flare out; I divided the section into four, spreading them out and pinning them on to spot and cross paper. I added a seam allowance and bias grain lines. Doing this on the fold meant that I could open it up and have a full pattern piece.

Incorporating gathers into a design can add volume and alleviate any problems with overlapping patterns. I cut into one section, spreading it out, which alters the shape of the pattern.

I experimented further by designing a circular dart, ensuring it passed through both bust points. I gathered it up along the outside edge.

Transformational Reconstruction - Week 2

To transfer the dart, I started with a basic bodice pattern and drew on an alternative dart, adding a notch as it was curved. Next I cut open all three of the darts and taped the two original ones shut. This opened up my new dart. I placed the altered pattern piece on spot and cross paper, traced around it then added a 1cm seam allowance. I also moved the bust point down 2cm to avoid having a pointed bust. I experimented on another basic block by transferring the dart to a different position.

For an asymmetric design, a full bodice block must be used. Like before, I cut open the darts and taped the waist darts shut. I then drew my first dart from the waist to the opposite bust point. After cutting this open I taped the shoulder darts shut. My second dart went from the bust point to the armhole.