Pleating

Sharing with us his expertise and handy tips, a business professional of fifty years held a workshop where we learned how to create card patterns for pleats as well as handle and experiment with some pleating samples he had brought with him.

I took advantage of the opportunity and experimented with some by working on a stand; layering up and teaming soft, subtle pleats with harsh and more 3-dimensional ones. I like how the cube-like pleats frame the armhole, yet contrast in both colour and shape to the ruffled V-pleats.

When constructing a pleat pattern, attention to detail is key. I measured and marked along a piece of card every 3.0cm then joined the marks vertically and diagonally (both ways) with a pencil. Once I knew my lines intersected at the same points I scored along each line. I then folded along the lines, making "mountains and valleys" creating a V-shaped pleat. Two identical patterns need to be made so that fabric can be sandwiched between them, and then steamed.